Hands-On: The Fam Al Hut Mark 1 Mobius

March 27, 2015

If youve read my writing for any length of time, youll know Ive got a soft spot for independents - the Urwerks, WRK Timepieces, and Armin Stroms of the world. These are the brands that, in my opinion, tend to push the envelope and take risks that most others wouldnt. It was through a mutual love of independent watchmaking that I first met Lukas Young, one of the co-founders of Fam al Hut. After being a collector for so long, Lukas had long wanted to launch something of his own. That something is the Fam al Hut Mark 1 M?bius, and its a debut that doesnt just feel like a warm-up act.The M?bius doesnt tiptoe into the market; rather, it charges in headfirst with a biaxial tourbillon, retrograde minutes, and a retrograde jumping-hour complication. Thats a lot of horological firepower packed into a case thats anything but conventional.What s in a name?Fam al Hut takes its name from Fomalhaut, a bright white star located around 25 light-years from Earth. Its the most luminous star in the constellation Piscis Austrinus and has long captured the imagination of astronomers and storytellers alike. The name comes from the Arabic phrase Fom al-Haut, meaning Mouth of the Fish. While that might sound like an unusual choice for a Chinese brand, theres method behind the madness.In Chinese tradition, the same star was known as Bei Luo Shi Men, roughly translating to Northern Camp Army Gate, a poetic image of a lone soldier guarding the outskirts. Across both cultures, the star symbolized brilliance, solitude, and quiet strength. It was a fitting metaphor for the independent path Lukas and Fam al Hut co-founder Xinyan Dai chose to take. As they explained, the idea of naming the brand after a star felt like the right expression of what independent watchmaking represents - a solitary but luminous journey, charting one s way through the dark. So, choosing an Arabic name for a Chinese brand wasnt a branding gimmick so much as it was a tribute. It was a nod to the shared astronomical history spanning cultures and a signal that this brand doesnt draw inspiration from the obvious places.First impressions: from skepticism to curiosityWhen I first saw early renders of the Mark 1 M?bius, Ill admit I wasnt entirely sure about it. The case was a love-it-or-hate-it pill-shaped ellipse that looked slightly alien. In a world full of round cases and integrated lugs, this one stuck out. I couldnt think of anything else quite like it, and I wasnt sure if that was a good thing. While being a big fan of the unconventional when it comes to watchmaking, there are some things I often like to stay traditional to keep me grounded, namely, cases. Outside of the accepted standard case shapes, I can struggle to adapt.But then I got the prototype in hand during the inaugural London Watch Week, where I met with Dai. Id been looking forward to seeing this watch for quite some time after missing out on seeing the brand during Time To Watches earlier this year. It didnt take long for that initial skepticism to melt away. The case has a set of unusual concave flanks that let the highly polished surfaces catch the light in a way thats hard to explain but very satisfying to see in motion. Its compact and hugs the wrist in a way that on-screen images struggle to capture. This is another reminder that dimensions on a spec sheet only tell part of the story. The M?bius wears beautifully.That said, the dimensions are worth mentioning. The case measures 42.2mm long, 24.3mm across, and 12.9mm thick at its core. However, the bubble-shaped sapphire crystal brings the thickest portion to 17.4mm, giving the tourbillon space to breathe and rotate freely on its vertical axis. The case back is slightly curved for comfort, and you really feel that curve on the wrist. The ergonomics are well considered, especially given how experimental the form is.Stainless steel or something more exotic?The prototype Ive been spending time with is the standard version in stainless steel, but production models will offer customers another, more unusual upgrade option for those who want something special - amorphous zirconium.For the uninitiated, amorphous zirconium falls into a broader category of materials called bulk metallic glasses (BMGs). Unlike traditional metals that have a crystalline structure, BMGs are cooled so rapidly during processing that their atomic structure remains disordered. This gives them enhanced properties, such as extreme hardness, resistance to wear and corrosion, and a distinctive glassy sheen.For a watch case, that translates to a highly scratch-resistant surface that feels a touch denser than titanium and has a lustrous finish thats not quite like anything else. Its an ambitious choice, but it fits the ethos of the M?bius rather perfectly for the small upgrade of just US$1,000.Mechanics and symbolism in equal measureOne of the more compelling things about the Mark 1 M?bius is how much thought has gone into the concept. Its layout is essentially split into two halves. The top half of the dial is for the biaxial tourbillon, and the bottom is where youll find the twin retrograde indications. Both the minute and hour hands sweep across their arcs before snapping back to start the cycle again. The minute hand, however, does so smoothly, while the hour indicator jumps between each hour. This duality mirrors the M?bius strip that gives the watch its name. In fact, the shape of the tourbillon cage itself echoes this symbol of infinity. Its a visual metaphor for time as a continuous loop, a theme that works especially well when you see the tourbillon spin and reset mechanisms spring into life together. Its more than just a tricked-out movement; theres genuine philosophical cohesion here, which I always appreciate.Inside the watch beats the M-01T, an in-house manual-winding movement developed by Fam al Hut. It has one of the most delightful winding sounds I have ever encountered. The movement almost chimes as you wind it, a feature that Dai pointed out to me. It runs at a 3Hz frequency (21,600vph) and offers a power reserve of around 50 hours. Given how compact the case is, its impressive how the brand managed to fit such a complex movement into this footprint. The movement architecture itself is also smartly laid out, and in future production pieces, the manual finishing will be further refined.Prototype today, production tomorrowLets talk about where this prototype stands and where the production model is heading. This isnt a final production piece, but its close. According to the brand, several subtle but meaningful changes are on the way before the watches ship.First is the hand-finishing. This Mark 1 M?bius prototype is already very good, but the production pieces aim even higher. I had a chance to see an updated prototype during London Watch Week, and the difference was noticeable. The transitions on the movements tiny components were crisper, the bevels more prominent, and the polishing a touch more lustrous. It felt like a proper upgrade, not just a polish-and-buff job. Dai informed me that this will be even further improved for the final production units.Second, the tourbillon speeds are changing. Right now, the dual-axis tourbillon rotates on one axis every 150 seconds and on the second axis every 60 seconds. Lukas rightly pointed out to me that the 150-second rotation felt a bit slow. Visually, you lose some of the kinetic magic that makes tourbillons so captivating to watch. In production pieces, that slower axis will speed up to a 90-second rotation. It is a small tweak, yes, but a smart one.Is it legible? Not especially. Do I care? Not really.This is not a field watch. It is not a diver. It certainly is not something youll glance at while dashing for a train and instantly read the time. But its not trying to be. The double-retrograde time display is a bit of theater, and it takes a moment to decode. Im fine with that; in fact, I encourage it. With so much to discover with this watch, taking an extra moment to appreciate it is a delight, not a chore. If youre buying a watch like this, youre not doing it for instant legibility. Youre doing it for the mechanics, the design, and the way it makes you feel. And the M?bius delivers plenty of that.Unisex by designOne of the things I thoroughly appreciate is that the Mark 1 M?bius was designed to be unisex from day one. The case size, shape, and strap all lend themselves to a comfortable wearing experience on any wrist, be it large or small. In particular, the strap is worth mentioning. It tapers from about 23mm at the case to an ultra-narrow 12mm at the deployant clasp. Its a dramatic transition, no question, but it means the watch can sit well on smaller wrists without overpowering them.For my tastes, the taper is perhaps a bit too extreme. On my 16.75cm (6.6″) wrist, Id probably prefer something that narrows to about 16mm. A nice pin buckle wouldnt go amiss either, but those are just personal preferences. The rubber strap is comfortable; there is no question about that. My partner, who has a much smaller wrist than mine, tried the watch on, and it looked right at home, though the long tail end of the strap needed a bit of tucking. Still, it proves the point: this strap was designed with inclusivity in mind. Id probably commission something custom from Delugs in green sailcloth to better match my tastes, but I digress.A confident debut from a brand with a clear voiceAs a debut, the Mark 1 M?bius doesnt feel like a first attempt. It feels more like the third or fourth release from an established indie. Theres a lot of confidence here, right from the design language to the movement architecture and the sheer ambition of the complication stack.Whats more, it plants a flag in the ground for Chinese high-end watchmaking. This is fully home-grown, Chinese-designed, and Chinese-made horology with a distinct voice. And importantly, its finished by hand to a level that pushes expectations. And what about the old assumptions about the gap between European and Chinese watchmaking? Watches like this are making that divide look a lot less relevant than it once was.Lets talk priceThe Mark 1 M?bius costs US$32,000. Thats not pocket change. However, consider what youre getting - a biaxial tourbillon, retrograde jumping hours and minutes, 200+ hours of craftsmanship per watch, and hand-finishing that impresses. If a European brand dropped something similar, youd be looking well into six figures. That makes the value here all the more impressive. Throw in the option to upgrade to amorphous zirconium, and it gets even more interesting. For me, the Mark 1 M?bius is more than just a great debut. Its also a strong contender in the broader landscape of modern independent watchmaking. Expect to see more from this brand in the not-too-distant future. I can imagine this watch shaking up the GPHG awards later this year. You heard it here first.Final thoughts on the Fam al Hut Mark 1 M?biusThe Fam al Hut Mark 1 M?bius is one of the most intriguing debut watches Ive handled in a long time. Its weird in all the right ways, uncompromising in its concept, and technically ambitious in a way that feels exciting rather than overthought. Moreover, its original, wearable, and one of the most exciting watches that has come across my desk in a long while. If this is what the brand can do right out of the gate, I cant wait to see what comes next for Lukas and Dai!Watch specifications Brand Fam al Hut Model Mark 1 M?bius Dial Openworked with gray retrograde hour and minute tracksCase Material Polished stainless steel (standard) or amorphous zirconium (+US$1,000)Case Dimensions 24.3mm (diameter) 42.2mm (length) 12.9mm (thickness ex. 4.5mm-thick sapphire bubble for tourbillon cage)Crystal SapphireCase Back Stainless steel or amorphous zirconium with figure-eight sapphire display Movement Fam al Hut M-01T: manual winding, 21,600vph (3Hz) frequency, 50-hour power reserve, biaxial tourbillon with 60- and 90-second rotations Strap Gray rubber (23/12mm) with deployant claspFunctions Time (retrograde jumping hour hand and retrograde sweeping minute hand)Price US$32,000 (stainless steel) / US$33,000 (amorphous zirconium)