Hands-On: New AP Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Diver Models

November 07, 2013

The 150 Heritage pocket watch, the Neo Frame Jumping Hour, and the skeletonized Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar might have stolen most of the limelight when Audemars Piguet presented many novelties in January. Nevertheless, the pieces I was probably most curious to see and try on were a series of three tool watches. Well, these are tool watches made to high-horology standards and with a price to match. Still, the three new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Diver models are water resistant to 300 meters and feature an internal dive bezel, qualifying them as proper instruments. The three new steel creations are tool watches that sit alone in the toolbox; they dont have any competition. Are the watches still as impressive as they were when the ROO Diver debuted in 2010?Is there a watch you could say is a true alternative to the $30,100 Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Diver? I cant think of one. The Patek Philippe Aquanaut ref. 5167A-001 is the $25,700 budget alternative in the unlikely event you can find one at an official dealer, but its not a dive watch. The $23,250, limited-edition Blancpain Tech Ocean Commitment IV is a 45mm titanium dive watch from a Haute Horlogerie brand, but its sold out and simply too big to be considered an alternative to a 42mm diver. The regular 42.3mm Fifty Fathoms Automatique ref. 5010 1130 71S steel production model, priced at $19,700, is just too cheap. That also goes for the $15,800 Omega Seamaster Ploprof 1200M, which is also more of a domesticated instrument than a luxury dive watch. The watch that comes closest in price and brand prestige might be the $28,500? Deepsea Challenge. But with a 50mm case diameter, that watch is not easy to wear, to put it mildly.Hands-on with three new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Diver watchesSo, in a way, the ROO Diver is in a class of its own. With this established, lets see if it s still as impressive as it was 16 years ago when it first surfaced. And it did make a big impression on me in 2010. The steel, black-dial Royal Oak Offshore Diver ref. 15703ST.OO.A002CA.01 (the $13,800 list price back then was already considered pretty steep) is a rugged piece with plenty of high-end touches that still looks fresh and clean.The cleanliness of the dial is probably ROO Diver s most attractive feature to me. The absence of sub-dials results in a clutter-free dial that shows off its distinct and prominent Mega Tapisserie pattern. An Offshore doesnt need to be a chronograph to tell you its a rugged, capable, and exclusive ocean-going tool watch. The muscular proportions and the extra crown, which controls the inner dive bezel on the side of the 42mm case, make that clear enough.Pink, turquoise, and tealThe three new variations are based on the updated ROO Divers from 2021. Five years ago, Audemars Piguet updated these watches with the in-house automatic caliber 4308. Other new features were the sapphire-equipped display case back and a patented quick-release system for easy strap changes. Also, the rubber to protect the screw-down crowns was axed in favor of ceramic, a very welcome upgrade. When picking up either of the three new versions, the 42mm steel case, with its 14.2mm thickness and 55mm length, immediately gives you that confidence-inspiring feeling. Yes, youre holding something luxurious and costly, but you also immediately want to dive off a cliff into the turquoise water below. But before doing so, it is worth having a look at the wonderfully finished case. Despite its raised bezel, it feels soft and smooth. The bezel s brushed surface also feels satin-soft, and its look is enhanced by eight polished screws.The perfect summer sizeMy grail summer watch is, without a shadow of a doubt, the Royal Oak Offshore Diver. But which one? As I wrote, the very first one is still crisp, but the presence of not-so-luxurious rubber on the two crowns isnt the best. Theres also a very attractive version in forged carbon from 2012 that competes for the top spot in the pecking order. But the perfect summer watch, if there were no budget restrictions, would be one of the three new steel versions.Let me first state that the size is perfect. The 42mm case is not too big or too small for a watch youre mostly going to wear with short sleeves while feeling good, loose, and relaxed. The summer is the time to let go, be a bit more outgoing, and enjoy life to the fullest. And that includes your watch. Therefore, you dont wear something that has to slip under the cuff during meetings. Instead, you want to show off just a bit. And you can with a ROO Diver because you dont see too many around. I understand that has something to do with the price, but its also not the ROO you pick when you want to make a statement; the 43mm Selfwinding Chronograph is much better for that.The 300m-water-resistant ROO Diver is a creature you spot way less often in the wild. It seems to be anything but the obvious choice, even if AP is the obvious brand when youre shopping for exclusive timepieces with that edgy, sporty look rooted in high-horological expertise. The ROO Diver is a statement of individual style.Steel and what else?The new steel Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Diver comes in black and pink (15720ST.OO.A010CA.01), black and turquoise (15720ST.OO.A355CA.01), and a teal blue with a black and white rotating inner bezel (15720ST.OO.A403CA.01). The watches feature black ceramic screw-down crowns, and inside the case still beats the 4Hz automatic caliber 4308 with a 60-hour power reserve. Having a peek at it through the display case back is worth your time because you will see great movement finishing. For example, theres C?tes de Geneve and circular graining to appreciate, along with a blackened 22K pink gold rotor.These latest Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Diver models each come with an interchangeable rubber strap, which matches the dial or accent color, and an XXL stainless steel pin buckle.The dials all feature a Mega Tapisserie pattern, large, applied white or pink gold hour markers, and bold, functional hands with a luminescent coating. A date window sits at 3 oclock, and to improve readability, theres a little magnifying glass embedded in the dial.Wearing the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding DiverAt 165 grams, this steel watch is certainly not a lightweight - quite the opposite. However, the case s size and proportions and the supple, wide rubber strap outfitted with an XXL pin buckle keep the watch steady on the wrist. Is it a 42 that wears/looks like a 44? In the case of the ones with touches of pink and turquoise, maybe so. The bright colorways are outgoing and wont go unnoticed. The teal-dial version, my favorite watch of the three newcomers by far, is much more subtle. With its white and black inner bezel and pink gold hands and crown details, this Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Diver looks more distinguished. Blue and pink gold can sometimes look a bit flashy and unrefined, but teal with just a few touches of pink gold in a steel setting looks timelessly good.The color combination adds a bit of seriousness to a watch thats made to have fun with. Also, the pink gold details certainly match the serious price tag. I would not have a problem wearing this watch all summer long, both in and out of the water. What a nice, distinctive tan line that would provide.What is your opinion on the three new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Diver watches? Would you say one of these is the ultimate summer watch? Please let me know in the comments section below.Watch specifications Brand Audemars Piguet Model Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding DiverReference 15720ST.OO.A355CA.01 (turquoise with matching rubber strap / 15720ST.OO.A403CA.01 (teal with matching rubber strap)15720ST.OO.A010CA.01 (pink with white rubber strap)Dial Black or teal with Mega Tapisserie pattern, applied white or pink gold hour markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating, rotating inner bezel with luminescent turquoise, white, or pink, accents on 0C15-minute zone, date window at 3 o'clock with magnifying glassCase Material Stainless steel with brushed and polished finishes, rubber gasket, black ceramic screw-down crownsCase Dimensions 42mm (diameter) 55mm (length) 14.2mm (thickness)Crystal Antireflective sapphire glassCase Back Stainless steel with antireflective sapphire glass Movement Audemars Piguet 4308: automatic with manual winding and hacking seconds, 28,800vph (4Hz) frequency, 60-hour power reserve, 234 components, 32 jewels, 32mm diameter, 5.2mm thickness, blackened 22K gold rotorWater Resistance 300 metersStrap Dial- or accent-matching rubber with quick-release system and stainless steel pin buckleFunctions Time (hours, minutes, seconds), date, internal 60-minute bezelPrice $30,100