Hands-On: Gerald Charles Maestro GC39 25th Anniversary

April 04, 2012

During Watches and Wonders 2025, we had the opportunity to meet with Gerald Charles and view the latest releases. The other news is the 25th anniversary of the brand s founding by Gerald Genta in 2000. Therefore, some of the models we saw in Geneva were made to celebrate a quarter-century and contain a special logo marking the occasion. The Maestro GC39 25th Anniversary Edition intrigued us, which led to some time with the watch at our headquarters.When the Maestro GC39 25th Anniversary Edition was released during the large show in Geneva, we briefly covered the watch. We then saw it and asked to spend an extended time with the piece. Overall, as you ll see, our impressions are favorable. Yes, this is an exclusive luxury piece with a commensurate price tag to boot, but it s the kind of watch that should appeal to those who are looking for something a bit different from the normal round dress watch with an interesting complication.The Maestro GC39 25th Anniversary EditionBefore sharing our thoughts on this commemorative Gerald Charles model, let s spend a few words on the basic specifications. The watch has a Grade 5 titanium case with a 42mm diameter, an equal length, and an 11mm profile. In an uncommon twist from a maker of dressier timepieces, the GC39 has a 100m water resistance rating. With this spec and the included rubber strap with folding clasp, it s clear that the brand wants people to treat these watches as daily drivers. The other important point is that this watch is part of a limited production of 100 pieces. Now, let s get into the finer details. A lovely lapis dial with guillochageThis Maestro GC39 features a relatively complex dial that s full of details. The central portion is made from lapis lazuli, one of my favorite stones. Here, it s bright blue and acts as the focal point. The other main dial surface looks like meteorite from a distance. However, Gerald Charles has employed a chemical technique called meta-guillochage. Think of it as an etching process. The Maestro GC39 25th Anniversary Edition s dial is technically a sector dial with clear separation between the lapis and guillochage areas. A secondary inner section corresponds with the outer edge of the jump-hour display. The borders of each segment are crafted in glossy blue Colormix. The hue is similar to a flame-blued finish. A printed black minute track follows the case s characteristic baroque shape. Within this track, cabochon-shaped hour indices are also crafted from blue Colormix. Finally, a tapered, faceted, pointed, and skeletonized arrow hand indicates the minutes. Interestingly, there s no sign of a pinion hole.Overall, a visually captivating dial designJump-hour watches aren t always to my liking. In some forms, they re too plain and leave me cold. From a distance, the Maestro GC39 25th Anniversary Edition doesn t give away its complication like a Cartier Tank Guichets does. That s a positive. If there s one niggle I have with the dial design, it s the 25th Anniversary logo. The logo itself is well designed, and the way it incorporates the brand s logo is slick. However, I think it s a bit too prominent on the dial, and I d like to see the watch without it. Then again, every company should be allowed to celebrate, right?A beautiful, polished titanium caseA three-quarter view of the Maestro GC39 reveals Genta s case with a rounded step bezel and strong vertical lugs. Here, the titanium is polished to a perfect shine that resembles stainless steel. The benefit, naturally, is its lightness and balance on the wrist. The watch s screw-down crown has Clous de Paris knurling and an engraved logo on the outer surface.From the side, the watch shows barrel-shaped lugs that curve toward the wrist. This makes a real difference and helps avoid the slab-like feeling that plagues so many rectangular watches. Speaking of the general shape, it s obvious that this is a different, often-polarizing take on a rectangular watch, but I ve always enjoyed its uniqueness. Plus, and I have to mention this in every Gerald Charles article, it s worth trying on one of these watches because they look much different on the wrist.Wearing the Maestro GC39The Maestro GC39 25th Anniversary Edition is a relatively imposing watch on the wrist. Its square dimensions mean that it fits most wrists, but it s still necessary to wrap your mind around its width. Interestingly, the most controversial part of the watch, the curved portion at the bottom of the case and dial, is seamless when worn. The blue fluororubber strap is immensely comfortable and flexible. Its accompanying titanium folding clasp, with its large logo buckle, is a classy addition. What I d like to see, especially for a watch at this price, is an included alligator strap. Also, it would be nice for Gerald Charles to develop a bracelet with fine links to fit this series of watches.The Gerald Charles 4.0 jump-hour movementEach Maestro GC39 25th Anniversary Edition is equipped with the brand s 4.0 automatic caliber. This is an in-house-designed movement produced by Vaucher. It has 50 hours of power reserve and a frequency of 28,800vph.Other high-end touches include rhodium plating, C?tes de Geneve, and perlage finishes. The golden rotor also exhibits the 25th Anniversary symbol and sits within the brand s honeycomb pattern.Final thoughtsGerald Charles has created a thought-provoking piece for its 25th anniversary. The Maestro GC39 uses the brand s Genta-designed case, a special movement, and perhaps an even more special dial. At $44,600, this watch competes in an expensive yet highly contested segment of the market. It certainly offers a unique look, and its limited nature should interest potential buyers. For additional information and to find a local authorized dealer, make sure to visit the official Gerald Charles website.Watch specifications Brand Gerald Charles Model Maestro GC39 25th Anniversary EditionReference GC39-TNPS-LSEN-RSDP-REMDial Lapis lazuli center, meta-guillochage-engraved outer section, Colormix blued steel frameCase Material Grade 5 titaniumCase Dimensions 42mm (diameter) 42mm (length) 11mm (thickness)Crystal Sapphire with internal and external multilayer antireflective coatingCase Back Titanium and sapphire crystal, affixed with eight screws Movement Gerald Charles 4.0: designed in-house, produced by Vaucher, automatic with manual winding and hacking, 28,800vph frequency, 50-hour power reserve, 28 jewels, decorated with C?tes de Geneve and perlage finishes, rhodium-plated module wheels, 265 componentsWater Resistance 10 ATM (100 meters)Strap Blue vulcanized rubber with butterfly deployant claspFunctions Time only (jumping hours, central minutes)Price $44,600Warranty Two years, extendable to fiveSpecial Note(s) Limited edition of 100 pieces