Hands-On: Breguet Tradition Seconde Retrograde 7037

December 02, 2013

Last year was Breguets 250th anniversary, and the brand treated us to many beautiful new watches to mark the occasion. However, it also made me think about how its new leadership would handle the regular collection of Breguet watches. We see the first results today, with the new Breguet Tradition Seconde Retrograde 7037, a previously discontinued reference.A new TraditionThe Breguet Tradition debuted in 2005 under the leadership of Nicolas G. Hayek, first with a manual-wind movement in a 37mm yellow gold case. In the years that followed, the Tradition collection grew to include other (precious) materials, larger cases, and complications.Breguet Tradition Seconde Retrograde 7035We ve covered many Breguet Tradition watches here on Fratello over the years, and they have become some of my favorite models in the brand s collection. Last years Tradition 7035 (click here to read our article on it) was already a treat and perhaps a sneak preview of what was to come.Return of the Tradition Seconde Retrograde 7037Today, Breguet is introducing six new Tradition references, but we will focus on the Tradition Seconde Retrograde ref. 7037BB/YB/5V6. The 7037 is not new; Breguet introduced this model in 2006 as the first self-winding watch in the Tradition collection. The new Tradition Seconde Retrograde 7037 remains faithful to its 38mm diameter and has a 46.1mm lug-to-lug length.Breguet Tradition 7027 in yellow goldAs I own a Breguet Tradition 7027 in yellow gold, strapping on this new 7037 felt very familiar to me. But once I had it on my wrist, I was looking at a different composition. My watch has a yellow gold case and matching movement, with a silvered gold dial at 12 oclock. The new 7037, however, is all white (gold) and blue, including the strap. The small dial at 12 oclock on this Tradition Seconde Retrograde is white Grand Feu enamel with blue Breguet Arabic numerals. What remains the same is the architecture of the movement, at least for the most part. The 7037 has an 18K white gold retrograde seconds hand at 11 oclock, whereas my Tradition has a power reserve indicator. The folks at Breguet must have thought that with a self-winding movement, theres no need for the latter (at least not while wearing the watch).Breguet blueThe blue that Breguet used for the movement is the ideal marine blue, and the rhodium-plated movement parts, white gold case, and white enamel dial provide the perfect contrast. The open-tipped Breguet pomme hands are blued steel and match the blue Breguet Arabic numerals on the dial. Ive noticed that many comments on previous Tradition articles or IG images are about the small dial, but as an owner and wearer, I ve never had any legibility issues with it. Even though I wear glasses, I can perfectly read the time with and without them.Caliber 505 SRBreguet uses its caliber 505 SR, a self-winding movement consisting of 245 components. It features a silicon Breguet balance spring, blue ALD (atomic layer deposition) coating on the bridges and mainplate, and a 950 platinum oscillating weight. On the side of the movement that is visible through the front crystal, you can enjoy the snailed pattern on the barrel cover. It adds a bit of extra depth to the dial.White gold seconds handThis watch s combination of blue and rhodium also highlights the pare-chute shock absorber, a Breguet invention from 1790. The backside of the watch reveals the rest of the blue-coated movement and the 2.3g platinum rotor engraved with the Breguet wordmark. Breguets caliber 505 SR offers a 50-hour power reserve.Blue rubber strapAttached to the welded lugs is a blue rubber strap with a nylon-like texture and light gray stitching. It comes complete with an 18K white gold pin buckle. The strap reminds me somewhat of the one on my Omega Speedmaster Silver Snoopy Award 50th Anniversary watch. Frankly, I am not a fan, and would have rather seen a blue alligator strap here. But the rubber strap does have some advantages in terms of durability and sportiness (or making the watch perhaps a bit less stiff or dressy).What I like about this new strap is that it can be swapped for another without using a screwdriver. On previous Tradition models, Breguet used screw-in pins for the strap, as well as a tiny screw underneath two of the lugs to clinch those pins. Thankfully, the brand has equipped the new Tradition Seconde Retrograde with quick-release pins, not only for connecting the strap to the case but also for affixing the white gold buckle to the strap.The on-wrist experienceOn the wrist, the Breguet Tradition Seconde Retrograde 7037 looks very similar to my Tradition 7027. The case is just 1mm larger and slightly thicker (12.7mm instead of 12mm). The combination of blue and white gold works really well, making it a standout watch. Its very different from the more classic watches in Breguet s lineup, but it retains the Traditions typical look and feel. I find it incredibly comfortable to wear, and despite its modern flavor, it still stays true to the spirit of that first 2005 Breguet Tradition.The retail price of the Breguet Tradition Seconde Retrograde ref. 7037BB/YB/5V6 is CHF 45,200, excluding VAT.The dial and movement of the platinum Tradition Seconde Retrograde 3037This watch will also be available in platinum (ref. 3037PT/N9/5V6) with a black movement and black Grand Feu enamel dial for CHF 49,700 before VAT.Breguet Tradition GMT 7067The other Tradition modelsTwo additional Tradition models debuting today are the 40mm platinum GMT ref. 7067PT/NM/5W6 and a similar version (7067PT/NM/5W6 01) with Eastern Arabic numerals on the home-time display. Each retails for CHF 62,800, excluding VAT.Breguet Tradition Seconde Retrograde 7038Then, there s the 37mm Tradition Seconde Retrograde ref. 7038BB/N9/V6D0 with 58 brilliant-cut diamonds, retailing for CHF 50,600 before VAT.Breguet Tradition Seconde Retrograde 7097And last but not least is the Tradition Seconde Retrograde 7097BR/GB/3WU in a 40mm rose gold case, which costs CHF 43,200, excluding VAT.Breguet Tradition Seconde Retrograde 7037From the new Breguet Tradition offerings, this 7037 with a blue movement and a white Grand Feu enamel dial is my favorite. The white gold is a bit quieter than my 18K yellow gold Tradition, and details like the snailed barrel cover, blue ALD-treated bridges and mainplate, and enamel dial make it a standout piece.Let us know what you think about the new Breguet Tradition models in the comments below.More information is available on the official Breguet website.Watch specifications Brand Breguet Model Breguet Tradition Seconde RetrogradeReference 7037BB/YB/5V6Dial White Grand Feu enamel with blue Breguet Arabic numeralsCase Material 18K white goldCase Dimensions 38mm (diameter) 46.1mm (lug-to-lug) 12.7mm (thickness)Crystal SapphireCase Back White gold and sapphire crystal, Movement Breguet 505 SR (Seconde Retrograde): automatic winding, 21,600vph (3Hz) frequency, 50-hour power reserve, 38 jewels, silicon Breguet balance spring, blue ALD-treated bridges and mainplate, snailed barrel cover, Pt950 oscillating weightWater Resistance 30 metersStrap Blue textured rubber with quick-release pins and 18K white gold quick-release pin buckleFunctions Time (hours, minutes, retrograde seconds)Price CHF 45,200 (ex. VAT)Warranty Five years, internationalSpecial Note(s) Weight in 18K gold: 51.3 grams