Hands-On: 40mm Frederique Constant Classic Perpetual Calendar

December 02, 2018

Let s be thankful that, in the watch world, evolution doesn t always mean getting larger. Take the new 40mm Frederique Constant Classic Perpetual Calendar Manufacture (FC-776SAL3H6) as an example. This watchs predecessor debuted in 2016 in a 42mm case. It was an important introduction because it was the market s most affordable mechanical perpetual calendar watch when it was launched. Now, though, the Geneva-based brand introduces an updated and upgraded QP with a reduced (improved) case that s even more classic and refined than before and a more powerful in-house movement. Again, this is an important introduction with a smaller steel case, a lively and sophisticated salmon dial, and a price below $10,000.Yes, not too long ago, I wrote an article titled Democracy Is Dead. The article was about the rift between buyers of top-end and entry-level luxury watches and how it is widening. I also wrote that watch brands catering to an audience that makes considerate purchases must soon develop a plan to stay relevant and worthy of the money people spend on them. Frederique Constant might have found the right strategy at precisely the right time.The updated and upgraded 40mm Frederique Constant Classic Perpetual Calendar ManufactureFrederique Constant was founded in 1988, and although thats relatively recent, it has developed an identity and reached different generations since then. The founding couple, Peter and Aletta Stas, wanted to democratize Swiss-made luxury watchmaking with their brand by offering traditional looks you would normally see at Haute Horlogerie levels but at much lower prices. I remember the first creations, and I was skeptical about them. That remained the case for a few years. Still, my perception of Frederique Constant changed because the brand has steadily refined its designs, stayed true to the original philosophy, and developed in-house movements.I still dont find it the worlds most exciting watch brand, but thats not its intention. When I think of watch fans who didn t witness the brand s first decade, FC is a solid player in the watch world. If you want a mechanical watch, care about in-house movements, like traditional design codes, and need to be careful how you spend your hard-earned cash, FC could be the brand for you. Also, because you ve seen the brand create classic watches since you became interested in them, FC is a constant in your watch world.Updated specsAs mentioned, the Frederique Constant Classic Perpetual Calendar Manufacture is now a 40mm watch. Its case has a 12.1mm profile, meaning its as lithe as the watchs predecessor, the 42mm Slimline Perpetual Calendar Manufacture. Powering the old QP was the in-house caliber FC-775. This 6.7mm-thick 4Hz automatic movement had 26 jewels and offered a 38-hour power reserve. Inside the new Classic Perpetual Calendar Manufacture lies the caliber FC-776, the brand s 34th in-house movement. The power reserve increased to 72 hours, and although the jewel count and beat rate remained, it is a step forward in terms of build quality and finishing. The classic perlage and radial C?tes de Geneve decorations visible through the display case back look good. No, we re not looking at a Lange-like level of finishing, but it is certainly still pleasing.A winner of a dialThe 40mm Classic case shows a soft and rounded profile and prominent lugs. It also feels and looks more refined than its 42mm predecessor. Thanks to the 2mm reduction, the watch now has a case size no one can argue against. Who can honestly say that they wanted this traditional QP to have a 39mm case instead? With the watch s 12.1mm thickness, the proportions are excellent. It sits nicely on almost every wrist, and apart from the traditional QP looks that never grow old, it has a salmon dial, a type of dial made famous and desirable by the biggest names in high horology.The salmon-toned dial featuring a radiant sunray finish has slightly recessed sub-dials for the calendar functions, creating depth. Since this is a classic calendar watch, it has a moonphase indicator. The moon turns in a sub-dial at 6 oclock and shines against a subtle blue color. Other subtleties are the polished, diamond-cut indexes and redesigned dauphine hands that are sleeker than before. Despite the smaller case size, the refined features of the dial give it a strong presence.The Classic Perpetual Calendar Manufacture looks like it has been here foreverSometimes you see a novelty and think youve seen it before. Thats bad if the brand wants to revolutionize the world of watches with a groundbreaking creation. However, when its the launch of a new traditional watch, that feeling proves the brand did a good job. The redesigned and upgraded 40mm Frederique Constant Classic Perpetual Calendar Manufacture with its salmon-colored dial looks like it has been around for ages. Therefore, its a traditional novelty that makes perfect sense. So is the brown alligator strap outfitted with a folding clasp. I would change it for a very dark blue one to give it a slightly more contemporary look and maybe get rid of the folding clasp, but thats just personal taste talking. If I spent $9,995 / US$9,995 / CHF 9,995 on this watch, would it still leave me wanting a higher-end offering with a slightly similar look? No, it probably wouldn t because watches like that are around three times more expensive and, consequently, not within reach. Yes, the wearer of a Frederique Constant Classic Perpetual Calendar Manufacture might dream of a Haute Horlogerie QP. At the same time, however, the owner of the sub-$10k QP will experience an in-house perpetual calendar watch that has the looks and pays distinct respect to the historic craft of watchmaking.Final thoughtsIs Frederique Constant still trying to democratize Swiss-made watchmaking? Maybe that is an ambitious ideal befitting a starting brand. In time, the realities of the watch world make every brand pragmatic and often opportunistic. The sporty Highlife collection, consisting of watches with integrated bracelets, might be called jump-on-the-bandwagon creations, but please remember that FC is a commercial entity. The new creations in the Classics collection show the brand has found its voice, keeps fine-tuning it, is serious about developing in-house movements, and cherishes and caters to an audience valuing traditional watchmaking. Over time, Frederique Constant has become a special brand because, despite a couple of high-priced hero pieces, it has always stayed close to its roots and never strayed from the path of affordable mechanical watchmaking. That value is worth something in the world of luxury, democratic or not.Watch specifications Brand Frederique Constant Model Classic Perpetual Calendar ManufactureReference FC-776SAL3H6Dial Salmon with sunray finish, applied polished indexes, three calendar sub-dials with concentric graining, moonphase displayCase Material Stainless steelCase Dimensions 40mm diameter, 12.1mm thicknessCrystal Convex sapphire with antireflective coatingCase Back Stainless steel and sapphire crystal, screw-in Movement FC-776: manufacture perpetual calendar caliber, automatic winding, 28,800vph frequency, 72-hour power reserve, 26 jewels, radial C?tes de Geneve, perlage, rose-gold-plated skeletonized rotor, correctors on the side of the caseWater Resistance 5 ATM (50 meters)Strap Brown alligator (20/18mm) with folding claspFunctions Time (hours, minutes), perpetual calendar (day, date, month, leap-year-cycle registers), moonphase indicatorPrice $9,995 / US$9,995 / CHF 9,995