Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty: A Fresh Take On A 1970s Icon

September 06, 2016

Lets start with the name - Laureato. Its Italian, which we happen to like here at Fratello. Roughly translated, it means crowned for success or crowned with laurels, a reward once given to winners of sports competitions and, later, to students and artists. In Italy, laurea is also the equivalent of a master s university degree. So yes, it is a name with heritage and meaning. There are no portholes, no ships, and no German academic titles here.Of course, the Laureato does bring to mind some familiar names. Gerald Gentas designs for the Royal Oak, Nautilus, and Ingenieur defined the genre of luxury sports watches in the 1970s. But Girard-Perregaux was no bystander. In 1975, the brand introduced its entry, the Laureato. It joined the same conversation as the Royal Oak of 1972, the Nautilus and Ingenieur of 1976, and the Vacheron Constantin 222 of 1977 (what a decade!).The Laureato was born with a quartz chronometer movement, reflecting the technology of the time. It wasnt until 1995 that the first self-winding Laureato appeared. Like many of us born in the 70s, the Laureato grew up through the 80s and came of age in the 90s.This video is blocked because you did not accept marketing cookies. Change cookie settings A closer look at the Girard-Perregaux Laureato FiftyFast-forward to today, and we have the new Laureato Fifty, a limited edition of 200 pieces. Frankly, it feels like it deserves to be a permanent model in the collection. My time with it was short, but it left a lasting impression.The case measures 39mm across and just 9.8mm thick, almost exactly the dimensions of a Royal Oak Jumbo. On the wrist (mine is 18cm), its light, slim, and extremely comfortable. The case shape is classic Laureato - a stainless steel tonneau base with a gold octagonal bezel. The surfaces are finely finished, with horizontal satin brushing on the case, round satin brushing on the bezel top, and polished bevels to catch the light.The integrated bracelet flows seamlessly from the case. Its intermediate links are polished 18K yellow gold, providing a subtle contrast to the brushed steel.Hidden inside is a clever quick-pull 4mm extension, which is perfect for hot summer days when your wrist swells a little. Even the clasp is a pleasure to handle, with the GP logo engraved both inside and out.Dial detailsWhile the dial is officially sunray grey, it looks closer to a classic Clous de Paris texture. The date disc is in a matching color, and the window is neatly framed - a small but important touch. There are also applied, gold-plated baton markers and hands filled with white lume for low-light legibility. Everything feels carefully thought out.Inside the Laureato FiftyPowering the watch is the brand-new caliber 4800, designed and built entirely in-house. It features a silicon escapement and a variable-inertia balance -- modern touches that improve precision and reliability. The movement design is a nod to GPs famous three-bridge architecture, with a mix of finishes that invite a closer look.The rotor, which is solid 18K gold, carries the Girard-Perregaux wordmark and logo in relief. Beating at a 4Hz frequency (28,800vph), it offers a healthy 55-hour power reserve. This is exactly what youd expect from a true manufacture like GP.Final thoughtsWith a production run of only 200 pieces, the Laureato Fifty seems like a preview of where the collection is heading. On the wrist, it feels like a true high-end sports watch - slim, precise, and beautifully finished. Having owned a Royal Oak 15202 for many years, I can say the experience here is remarkably similar, but the Laureato comes across as a touch more refined, without the exposed bolts.This is a watch that respects its history while pointing forward. If the Laureato began life as an alternative to the big names, the new Fifty shows it can stand on its own. And on the wrist, its simply a joy.The price of the Laureato Fifty (ref. 81008-63-3412-1CM) is CHF 25,500 / $28,100 (including taxes). All details can be found in the table below or via Girard-Perregaux s website.Watch specifications Brand Girard-Perregaux Model Laureato FiftyReference 81008-63-3412-1CMDial Sunray grey with Clous de Paris pattern, applied gold-plated indexes and hands, and framed date windowCase Material Stainless steel and 18K yellow (3N) goldCase Dimensions 39mm (diameter) 9.8mm (thickness)Crystal SapphireCase Back Stainless steel and sapphire crystal Movement GP4800: automatic winding, 28,000vph (4Hz) frequency, minimum 55-hour power reserve, 163 components, 19 jewels, 18K (3N) yellow gold rotor, silicon escapmentWater Resistance 15 ATM (150 meters)Strap Stainless steel and 18K yellow (3N) gold integrated H-link bracelet with butterfly clasp and 4mm extension systemFunctions Time (hours, minutes, seconds) and datePrice CHF 25,500 / $28,100 (inc. VAT) Special Note(s) Limited series of 200 pieces