Fratellos Top 5 Pre-Owned Entry-Level Models

January 27, 2014

Another Friday, another list! This week, we re highlighting the best entry-level models you can buy pre-owned for an affordable price. A few weeks ago, we looked at five great Datejusts. While searching for the best picks, I saw many more great non-Datejust options. That inspired this week s list of five pre-owned models that, price-wise, are great alternatives to a Datejust. They are less obvious options but equally great watches!The Datejust is often praised for being the perfect entry into the world of . I agree with that fully as the watch is the most affordable of the iconic models. Having said that, plenty of other options are not obvious picks. Look past the Datejust, and you will be able to find some amazing models that make for a great entry-level that might also save you money compared to a Datejust. For true fans, these are not surprising picks, but for many of us, they tend to be the forgotten heroes. Without further ado, let s put the spotlight on these five great affordable options.Image: Bulang & Sons Air-King ref. 14000An immediate first pick was the Air-King ref. 14000. The watch debuted in 1989 as the successor to the legendary ref. 5500 and stayed in production for roughly a decade. Because it is a neo-vintage model, it offers all the convenience of a modern watch but combines that with classic looks. As most of you will know, the Air-King featured a 34mm stainless steel case with an 11.2mm thickness and a 43mm lug-to-lug.Image: Bulang & SonsAs a result, it is not a watch for people with bigger wrists. But don t let that keep you from trying it out, especially on the bracelet. Inside the case, equipped the watch with its in-house caliber 3000. The movement operated at 28,800vph with a 42-hour power reserve. In 2000, updated the movement to its caliber 3130, and the watch got the reference 14000M.Image: Bulang & SonsDifferent dials variations that all have their charmIn terms of dials, you can choose between black, white, silver, blue, or pink. created dials with the famous 3-6-9 configuration as well as other dials with Roman numerals. This Air-King reference is also one that sometimes carries the famous Domino s Pizza dial. However, we prefer traditional dials because of their classic look. You can choose from multiple colors that quite often also have a nice bit of patina.Image: Bulang & SonsFind one with a nice dial on an Oyster bracelet, and you will buy an unpretentious but great-looking . Expect to see prices for the Air-King ref. 14000 starting at roughly $3K and moving up to $5K depending on the dial variation and the condition. But you can certainly find a good one between $3K and $4K. This buys a great entry-level that could be a perfect daily wearer.Image: Bulang & Sons Oyster Perpetual Date ref. 15200The Oyster Perpetual Date ref. 15200 is a watch from the same period and is not all that different. The main difference is the date window with the famous Cyclops. The watch came with different bezels and in different materials. Our pick features a smooth steel bezel, while the ref. 15210 came with an engine-turned steel bezel. Additionally, produced those two variations in a combination of steel and yellow gold (refs. 15203 and 15233). Lastly, there was also a full-gold version with a fluted bezel (ref. 15238) that looks absolutely stunning. Because gold has quite a bit of wrist presence, the 34mm Date is a great option if you want a gold watch that is not so large but still makes an impact.Image: Bulang & SonsThe Date was produced from 1989 until 2005. The watch has a 34mm stainless steel case with a 12mm thickness and a 43mm lug-to-lug. The case was combined with a small selection of colors. Next to the standard black and white dials, also offered silver and gray dials, and lastly, popular sunburst blue and pink dials.Image: Bulang & SonsOn top of that, the Date also came in different executions, including a version with Arabic numerals for the even hours and a white-dial version with black Roman numerals. But just like for the Air-King, we like the traditional dial the best.Image: Bulang & SonsA legendary caliberIf you are a fan, you know that the lume changed over time from tritium to Luminova to Super-LumiNova. Inside the case, equipped the watch with its legendary caliber 3135. The automatic caliber operated at 28,800vph and offered 48 hours of power reserve. An advantage over the Air-King is that the caliber was certified as a chronometer, hence the text on the lower half of the dial.Image: Bulang & SonsJust like the Air-King, the Date came on an Oyster bracelet. However, it must be noted that also offered the option of a Jubilee bracelet for the two-tone and gold models.Prices for an Oyster Perpetual Date ref. 15200 start at roughly $3.5K and move up to $5.5K for the most recent version in great condition. It buys you another great modern classic!Image: Bulang & Sons Oyster Perpetual ref. 116000I m going to be a little cheeky with this next one. That s not because the Oyster Perpetual ref. 116000 isn t a brilliant, affordable option but because the version with the red grape dial that you see pictured is one of the most sought-after and, therefore, more expensive options. But let s start at the beginning.Image: Bulang & SonsThe 36mm Oyster Perpetual ref. 116000 is the predecessor of the current Oyster Perpetual ref. 126000. The watch was part of a series of Oyster Perpetual references in different sizes. distinguished between the 39mm model, which was targeted at men, and this 36mm version, which was considered a ladies model.Image: Bulang & SonsHonestly, I prefer this 36mm version because it doesn t combine two colors on the dial but simply uses one color. Most of you will know that the 39mm grape-dial variant combines the purple dial with red squares next to the indexes. Additionally, the gray-dial variant features blue squares. It makes the watches too frivolous for my taste, which is why I prefer the 36mm versions. The watches all feature a case with an 11.9mm thickness and a just over 44mm lug-to-lug.Image: Bulang & SonsSeveral dials to choose fromThe case was combined with various dial colors and configurations. They include red grape, white grape, steel, blue sunburst, and white lacquer. Regarding the different designs, you will find dials with the usual baton markers, dials with Roman numerals, and the 3-6-9 Explorer-style dials. Inside the case, equipped these watches with its caliber 3130. This dateless caliber operates at 28,800vph and offers 48 hours of power reserve.Image: Bulang & SonsWhen it comes to prices, expect to see these watches start around $5K and move up to $8K. It is indeed possible to find one between $5K and $6K, though, and it will buy you a perfect modern everyday for far less than its successor or the 39mm model. It makes this ref. 116000 a tempting offer for everyone looking for a great daily wearer.Image: Bulang & Sons Oyster Perpetual Date ref. 1500If you want a truly affordable , have a look at the Oyster Perpetual Date ref. 1500. This 34mm beauty offers true vintage charm with a friendly price tag. The watch debuted in the early 1960s and remained in production until the late 1970s. Simply put, it s the vintage version of the ref. 15200 from earlier in this article.Image: Bulang & SonsIf you pick this, you will get the vintage charm that many fans love. The watch has a 34mm stainless steel case with an 11mm thickness and a 41mm lug-to-lug. It s a modestly sized watch with an acrylic crystal and a variety of dial options.Image: Bulang & SonsJust like the previously discussed ref. 15200, the ref. 1500 came in a variety of colors with the familiar baton markers. But there was also the white-dial version with Roman numerals, which is a bit of an acquired taste. Additionally, there was a version with longer markers that gave the watch a completely different feel. The watch came standard on the famous Oyster bracelet, but you will also see plenty of them fitted with a Jubilee bracelet.Image: Bulang & SonsWe refer to the ref. 1500 as a model made of steel with a smooth steel bezel. However, the same reference was also available in steel and gold as ref. 1500/3 and in full gold as ref. 1500/7. Additionally, if you like the Date with an engine-turned bezel, you are looking for a ref. 1501. It certainly adds character, but we prefer the smooth lines of the ref. 1500.Image: Bulang & SonsMore variantsThere is also the ref. 1503. This is a yellow gold model with a fluted yellow gold bezel. This reference was available on both an Oyster bracelet and a Jubilee bracelet. Of course, the Jubilee bracelet looks like a gold Datejust, only a bit smaller. The 15xx series was completed by the gold-capped ref. 1550 and the brilliant ref. 1530 that features an Oysterquartz case with an integrated bracelet and a mechanical caliber. But that last one is a rare bird and goes for quite a bit of money, making it unsuitable for this list.Image: Bulang & SonsTwo chronometer-certified calibers used its in-house caliber 1565 until the mid-1960s when the brand upgraded to caliber 1575. The biggest difference was increasing the operation frequency from 18,000vph to 19,800vph. Additionally, the power reserve increased from 42 hours to 48 hours. Both movements were certified as chronometers, which is another reason the Oyster Perpetual Date ref. 1500 is super interesting to check out. Prices start at roughly $2.5K and move up to $5K. Within that stretch, there are plenty of great options, making the Oyster Perpetual Date ref. 1500 perhaps the most affordable and often overlooked entry-level . Considering what you get for the money, it is a great pick! Explorer ref. 114270We also wanted to squeeze in a sports model, and the best option is the Explorer ref. 114270. We also looked at generations that came before, but the ref. 1016 has become a pricey vintage piece. Additionally, we checked out the ref. 14270, but that is at a price level similar to that of its successor, the ref. 114270 that we picked. Considering the upgrades in both the movement and bracelet, it simply makes more sense to spend your money on the newer version of the two.The Explorer ref. 114270 came out in 2001 and stayed in production until the 39mm Explorer ref. 214270 debuted in 2010. The watch features a 36mm stainless steel case with an 11mm thickness and a 44mm lug-to-lug. The case was matched with the iconic black Explorer dial with the characteristic large 3, 6, and 9 numerals in white gold.Inside the case, the automatic caliber 3130 operates at 28,800vph and offers 48 hours of power reserve. It is an upgrade over the caliber 3000 that powered its predecessor. The watch came on the famous Oyster bracelet, and compared to the previous generation, upgraded it with solid end links. This is another reason to choose the younger ref. 114270.The Explorer is relatively affordableRegarding prices, you can find the Explorer ref. 114270 starting just under $5K and moving up to $7.5K. But it s most definitely possible to find one between $5K and $6K in good condition with box and papers. It makes this a super tempting first step into the world of . The ref. 114270 will buy you a modern version of a icon that dates back to 1953. In today s market, that is our go-to pick as the best affordable watch from the Professional line.Final thoughts on the list of affordable entry-level modelsThere you have it! Our list of five affordable entry-level models might not have any big surprises for devoted fans of the brand. But seeing what a max $5KC6K budget can get you is good. And as it turns out, you have quite a few options that are a great way into the world of . It seems like the right time to finally get your favorite . But let us know what you would spend your money on. Would you buy one of the models on this list or go straight to a Datejust? You can get one at a roughly similar price. Let us know in the comments section, and we will see you next week for a new list!