Daans Neo-Vintage Picks Under 5K: Blancpain- Credor- Cartier

December 17, 2021

On Monday, Thomas kicked off another series of Fratello Favorites. Our writers get another chance to share their favorite watches within a certain segment. This time, we are tackling vintage watches under $5K. Like Thomas, I d also like to add another filter to those search terms. As I m not very confident with or knowledgeable about vintage watches, I ll limit my search to neo-vintage ones. I already own a few, like my Cartier Santos Galbee XL, Explorer, and Breguet Classique 5907. All are from the 2000s, and I m very happy with both their looks and build quality.Usually, for such an article, I go to my Chrono24 Notepad and see what fits the search terms. However, I already mentioned most of those during our Fratello Watch List series late last year. Many watches in my article from November fit today s criteria, so make sure to also take a look there. But, of course, I also went out and tried to find some additional neo-vintage gems for today s article. I hope you ll enjoy them.Image: itimeauthenticThe Seiko Credor Chronograph ref. GCBK99xLast month, I attended another RedBar get-together in Amsterdam. That evening, the theme was Fears watches as the Amsterdam-based boutique Ace Jewelers had just become an official dealer. Founder Nicholas-Bowman Scargill was there to tell us more about the Fears brand, and, of course, he brought a few watches over to check out. Besides that, it s always nice to catch up with other enthusiasts and get to know new ones. Right before I was about to leave, I started talking to a member I hadn t met. After we talked for a bit, I also noticed that he was wearing a watch I d never seen. It was a Seiko Credor Chronograph ref. GCBK995.Image: itimeauthenticThat s the version with a silver dial and blue hands. But there are also versions with a black dial and red hands, and even a limited edition with a carbon dial and orange hands. What they all have in common, though, is a quirky 38mm stainless steel case with a Breitling Chronomat-esque or Ebel-like vibe. Yes, it s an acquired taste, but I m a fan. The best part here, however, might be the Jubilee-looking bracelet these models come with. It has a very interesting construction, and it feels very smooth and solid at the same time. Most importantly, though, it looks stunning.Image: HorlogeforumI almost bought oneAfter that RedBar event, I immediately started searching for the model online, but there aren t many of them out there. That s understandable because, for their sub-$2,000 price, they look like a steal. I saw the limited-edition version with the carbon dial (ref. GCBK997) offered on a Dutch forum?for $1,750. I almost pulled the trigger, but I think I like the version with the silver dial better. It makes the watch look a little more elegant.Image: HorlogeforumInside the Credor GCBK99x series is the automatic Seiko 6S77 movement. Along with its chronograph function, it offers a date and a (somewhat obsolete) power reserve indicator. I ll certainly stay on the lookout for these Credors because the one I saw that evening positively surprised me. Oh, and did I mention that there are also some two-tone versions out there?Image: ZeitauktionA Blancpain Leman or Villeret, perhaps?When I started searching for watches to feature in this article, the beautiful Blancpain Leman with a big date complication crossed my mind again. Unfortunately, the watches with this complication are a bit out of budget for today s exercise. However, some other Blancpain models do make the cut, and they re not half bad!Image: ZeitauktionHow about?a 34mm Blancpain Villeret automatic chronograph in stainless steel from 2010? I suppose it s probably a bit too young to call neo-vintage, but it has a clean white dial with small Roman numerals and nice bevels on the sub-dials. Like many Villeret watches, its case is stepped on both the top and the bottom. But now comes the best part. Inside this reference 1185-1127-58 is an automatic Frederic Piguet caliber 1185. At the time of its introduction, this was the thinnest automatic chronograph movement at just 5.5mm thick. That s why this Blancpain Villeret is only 9.5mm from top to bottom. But the best thing of all is that it can be yours for $4,789.Image: Chrono24Another watch that uses the Frederic Piguet caliber 1185 as a base is the Blancpain Leman Flyback Chronograph ref. 2185F.1130.71. It adds a flyback mechanism to the mix, which makes the watch a bit thicker (12.5mm). However, its case is also wider at 38mm, so the proportions are still acceptable. Like the Villeret, it has a stepped bezel, but it also has some stylistic and functional upgrades. I love the bold and pointy numerals at each hour. They work so well with the watch s sword hands. But the screw-down pushers will also come in handy if you want to take this baby for a swim. All in all, I think this is a killer watch for $4,500.Image: Million-WatchesThe Cartier Santos Galbee ref. 2319Finally, I wanted to recommend my favorite watch, the Cartier Santos Galbee XL ref. 2823. However, I saw that it s now very hard to find a good one under $5K. Recently I ve also been looking at its smaller brother, the Santos Galbee ref. 2319. I m mostly interested in the Asia-only stainless steel limited edition with a gray sunburst dial and luminous hands and numerals, which is, again, too expensive for today s exercise. But when I started searching, I did find this nice two-tone example for?$4,990.Image: Million-WatchesUnlike my all-steel one, this version has gold screws in the bracelet and a gold bezel. It also comes with a beautiful guilloche dial that makes me I m kind of jealous. The one on this particular example does, however, look like it could use a thorough cleaning. On the other hand, it could also look a bit off because of the lighting for the pictures. Anyway, it s nice that the date window is in a more appropriate spot at 3 o clock instead of between 4 and 5, like on mine. The case is not only smaller than my Santos Galbee XL, but it s also more slender, and that s something that has to suit your style. If it does, then I think this is another great neo-vintage option to add to your collection.There you have it - some great neo-vintage watches in very different styles. Let me know your thoughts in the comments below. Which one would you pick, or what would be your choice below $5K?Header image: Zeitauktion