Gallet Multichron 45

October 19, 2020

This weeks #TBT focuses on a model from brand thats finally getting some long overdue attention: the Gallet Multichron 45. Here on Fratello Watches, weve had a couple articles on Gallet C and more are coming C but Ive mainly had my attention on the larger 3-register Multichrons (Gallets name for their chronographs). Today, though, well look at a more diminutive piece thats a lot simpler in execution, but no less interesting. Lets jump into it!The Gallet Multichron 45 is a simple, elegant chronograph that balances dress and sport35mm – don t be afraid!When it comes to watch diameters, 36mm seems to be the cutoff between the wearable and the passe. Im not sure why, but I suppose this size is a fair enough threshold thats likely been bolstered by the fact that for so long C and still to this day C watches such as the original Datejust and the Explorer have been made in 36mm. Its also a nice size that fits well with business attire but, at least if youre not a Panerai person, also works for most other activities. I reviewed a 34mm Tissot that I bought for my wife and while I find it charming enough to wear on my own wrist from time to time, it is a little watch. That leaves us with 35mm as a bit of a no-mans land and I will say that its an extremely variable size. What I mean by this is that there are big 35mm watches and small ones of the same diameter. The case design, dial size and lug length have a lot to do with this fact and proportions do count. Still, though, there are so many people who dismiss a 35mm watch with nary a glance; yes these specimens are the Rodney Dangerfield of timepieces. (For our non-American readers, this means that they get no respect.) Well, I am here to show you a 35mm watch today in the Gallet Multichron 45 that youd be silly to pass up C especially if a 36mm watch is desirable.The Gallet Multichron 45 nice long lugs and a nicely finished stainless steel caseThe Gallet Multichron 45 is a classy chronoI wont recount any Gallet history here (please see our articles on the Multichron 12 and the Multichron Pilot for more), but suffice it to say, the brand made a lot of different chronographs during its watchmaking history. The Gallet Multichron 45 is just one of those, but I find it extremely approachable because a) its reasonably priced in this red-hot chronograph market and b) its a damn good looking, relatively easy to find vintage chronograph.The Landeron 149 inside the Gallet Multichron 45The Landeron 149 sits insideThe meaning behind the 45 in the name is simple; the watch sports a 45-minute counter on the right. Driving the Gallet Multichron 45 is the 17-jewel Landeron 149. This is an interesting movement as its one of the few Landerons that operates like a traditional chronograph C remember, most Landerons use the top pusher to start the complication and the bottom pusher to stop and reset. It was actually a surprise to me that I didnt uncover until it was sent off for a service, but my research on the movement shows it to be robust, serviceable, and made in vast quantities C so its good for parts.A Gallet Multichron 45 dial close upMoving on to a look at the dial on the Gallet Multichron 45, were faced with lovely white background with ridged sub registers, and blue outer scales. The numerals, much like the Multichron 12 we reviewed, are applied tritium. The usage of this luminous material points to a production date of somewhere in the 1950s to early 60s. Another giveaway to the timeframe is the script of Gallet itself as the company switched to what Id call a cheerier, more modern script in the 1970s. Hands are batons that gently gain thickness towards their ends and both contain some now-gone lume. Looking at the dial when the watch is on the wrist yields an amazingly attractive, yet simple design. Its so legible, blends a touch of sport, but is also so very classy. I dont own any Universal Geneves from this era, but the look of the Gallet reminds me of them. As far as elegance, Ive worn the watch to work a few times to work in more formal settings and I must say that this is a great alternative to a simple 3-hand dress watch. Perhaps that 35mm has something to do with it!The Gallet Multichron 45 – 19mm lugs make such a differenceA 35mm watch that looks bigger!Lets address the elephant in the room about the 35mm diameter of the Gallet Multichron 45. I know that Ive reviewed several pieces of these size C the Omega DeVille 930, the Clebar/Zodiac V178, and the Benrus Sky Chief C and I am here to tell you that along with the Omega, the Gallet could easily pass as 36mm. Why did I pick these 2 as examples of 35mm watches that look larger than their actual size? I honestly think it has to do with the fact that both have a 19mm lug width. Seriously, the ability to pair this Gallet with a wider strap than on, say, the Benrus makes a huge difference. For some reason, I find 18mm straps to look ribbon-like whereas 19s are just right for chronographs.The Gallet Multichron 45 next to a Multichron 12 – the long lugs of the 45 make it relatively comparable to the bigger pieceAdd to this a simple stainless steel case thats beefy enough C it has long lugs that end up ceding only about 2-3 mm overall to the Multichron 12 C to help make the watch appear larger. Finally, a thick snap case back and a slimly domed acrylic crystal give the right proportions to keep the watch from looking too tall, but not so thin.The Gallet Multichron 45 as boughtI picked up this Gallet on eBay for about $400 and it looked like the picture above which is, well, not that pretty. Still, though, I was convinced that there was a nice dial under there somewhere and it luckily turned out to be the case. Of course, a new crystal was added as well. On the service side, lets just say that this non-runner had a reason to quit: rust.The Gallet Multichron 45 during service – a lot of rustI was thankful that my favorite Greek watchmaker, via LocalTime, spent the time to clean up the Gallet Multichron 45 in order to get this watch back into running shape.Gallet Multichron 45 during service – the case needed a lot of workNow, Im happy to say that it runs like a charm and is a real joy to use C those perfectly sized cap pushers work well with the crisp Landeron – and it keeps perfect time.The Gallet Multichron 45 on the wristYoull see that Ive paired the Gallet Multichron 45 with a stingray strap from GLC Straps of Italy and I think it looks pretty cool C especially for business dress. On the flip side, a NATO or a weathered brown strap would look fantastic as well. I can imagine that Ill be doing some swapping as necessary. I think all of you know by now that I have infamously small wrists. Still, I can pull off >40mm watches with relative ease but youll see that the Gallet looks good on me as well. So, its all about trying these and Id suggest you dont overlook a Multichron 45.A look at the Gallet Multichron 45 at this angle shows the applied lume and ridged registersThe Gallet Multichron 45 is a rare bargain…for nowLook, the vintage chronograph is currently hot to the point that some days on eBay, theres little more than Sicuras and Poljots for sale. Thats ok if thats your thing, but if youre looking for household name stuff, its getting harder and harder. Thankfully, there are usually a couple Gallet Multichron 45 examples out there. Sure, some are a bit ridiculous, but Ive seen a few lately that are straight up auctions without crazy buy-it-now pricing. I think, that with patience and negotiation, one should be able to find one of these pieces for $800-900 in really nice condition. Lesser examples should be available less, but factor in a service and possibly a new crystal. As always, keep away from pieces missing major cosmetic parts, but dont fear a non-runner unless its a total mess. Looking back at my price estimate, Im struck that this is one of the relatively few legitimate pieces out there still available at a nice price C snap one up!The Gallet Multichron 45 – the use of tritium likely points to a 1950 s-60 s production dateThanks for tuning in for a look at the Gallet Multichron 45. Im really happy with this watch. Its a quality piece from a well-respected marque and, yes Ill say it again, it wears very nicely despite the 35mm moniker. Wed love to hear from fellow 45 owners about what you think about the size and if it wears well-until then, happy hunting! The Gallet Multichron 45 sports simple baton hands The Gallet Multichron 45 is a simple, elegant chronograph that balances dress and sport The Gallet Multichron 45 has a slim crown and well-sized pushers – Gallet does proportions well The Gallet Multichron 45 nice long lugs and a nicely finished stainless steel case The Gallet Multichron 45 on the wrist A look at the Gallet Multichron 45 at this angle shows the applied lume and ridged registers The Gallet Multichron 45 simple snap case back The Gallet Multichron 45 side view shows a relatively thick case back and a slim domed crystal A Gallet Multichron 45 dial close up A lovely, still inexpensive, Gallet Multichron 45 The Gallet Multichron 45 – the use of tritium likely points to a 1950 s-60 s production date The Gallet Multichron 45 next to a Multichron 12 – the long lugs of the 45 make it relatively comparable to the bigger piece The Landeron 149 inside the Gallet Multichron 45 The Gallet Multichron 45 as bought Gallet Multichron 45 during service – the case needed a lot of work